Showing posts with label Italian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italian. Show all posts

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Apple and Red Wine Crostata - Torta Di Sant' Antonio

Ciao a tutti! The 2010 November Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Simona of briciole. She chose to challenge Daring Bakers’ to make pasta frolla for a crostata. She used her own experience as a source, as well as information from Pellegrino Artusi’s Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well (Lorenzo Da Ponte Italian Library).

Crostata is an Italian baked dessert tart, and a form of pie. It is traditionally prepared by folding the edges of the dough over the top of the jam/marmalade filling, creating a more "rough" look, rather than a uniform, circular shape. The jams that are traditionally used as a filling are cherries, peaches, apricots, berries. The crostata can also be filled with pieces of fresh fruit and pastry cream (crema pasticcera), but then it is called torta di frutta.

The December 2010 issue of Saveur arrived in the mail in the nick of time for Thanksgiving and the November Daring Bakers' challenge. When I saw the photograph of this gorgeous apple, red wine and cinnamon crostata, a traditional Occitan dessert from the northern Italian village of Oulx, I knew it was destined to appear on the Thanksgiving dessert table next to an encore presentation of Bobby Flay's Throwdown Pumpkin Pie. I also felt it would be a striking contribution to the array of Daring Bakers' crostate going to press on "reveal" day.


The base of a crostata is pasta frolla (or pastafrolla), sweet short crust pastry (or sweet tart dough) made of flour, sugar, butter and eggs. Pasta frolla is versatile: it provides the base to make crostata with fruit preserves, pastry cream, fresh fruit, ricotta, and other ingredients, and, by itself, it makes very nice cookies.

Kitchen Toys R & M Industries 5920 Apple Peeler/Corer/Slicer

Peeled, cored and sliced

Granny Smith apples stew in red wine, sugar, cinnamon and orange zest until the apples have absorbed the deep burgundy of the wine.


A tart pan with a removable bottom is used to hold the crostata, and the edges of the dough are folded over the top of the apples to achieve a rough, rustic look.


To make the garnish, dough scraps are rolled out and cut into grape and leaf shapes.

A pastry tip provided the right size "grapes"



Torta di Sant' Antonio
Slightly adapted from Saveur, December 2010
Serves 8

2 cups flour
7 tablespoons sugar, plus more for sprinkling
1 teaspoon baking soda
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes
1/4 cup milk, plus a few tablespoons more if needed
2 egg yolks
1 1/2 cups red wine
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
4 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Zest of 1 orange
1 egg white, lightly beaten

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse together flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, and baking soda. Add butter and pulse until pea-size crumbles form. In a separate bowl, whisk together milk and yolks. Add to flour mixture and pulse until it just starts to hold together. Add another tablespoon or two of milk if it seems too dry. Transfer to a floured surface; knead into a ball; wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.

In the meantime, bring the remaining 6 tablespoons sugar, wine, cinnamon and orange zest to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the apples, reduce heat, and simmer until wine is reduced to a syrup, 25-30 minutes. Stir the apples occasionally so they are evenly coated with the wine mixture.  Let cool.

Heat oven to 375 degrees F. Place dough on a floured surface and roll out to 1/8" thickness. Transfer dough to tart pan with a removable bottom and press into bottom and sides. Trim dough edges and reserve scraps. Spoon apple mixture into tart shell and fold the edges of the dough over the apples.

To make garnish, roll out scraps to 1/4" thickness, cut out leaf and grape shapes, and arrange on top of apples. Brush dough with egg white and sprinkle with sugar.

Bake until golden, about 25-30 minutes.

Serve plain, or with whipped cream or ice cream.



The Saveur pastry recipe differs slightly from the Daring Bakers' pasta frolla recipe. You can find the complete Daring Bakers' Crostata recipes and links here, along with a slideshow of the creative and exquisite variations prepared by the DB chefs. You can also go to the Daring Bakers blogroll, for links to our members' blogs. Grazie, Simona!

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Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Villains on Trial...Try 'em and Fry 'em

Our Third Annual Halloween Party, Villains on Trial...Try 'em and Fry 'em, ultimately blossomed into a full-blown Broadway production, worthy of a standing ovation.

On the morning of the party, when our home front decorations were in the process of being transferred over to our outdoor party venue next door, a torrential rainstorm hit. Last minute construction of Roy Bean's massive judge's bench, and the finishing touches on John's elaborate electric chair, were immediately suspended.

If you can envision a grown man about to cry, do so now. John was ready to cancel the party, and I questioned whether I should commence shopping and preparation of my hors d'œuvres and cupcakes. Thankfully, it was a fast-moving storm, the sun began to break through, and the party was back on track!

Guests began to arrive at six, dressed to the hilt in villain and villainess costumes. We mingled, sipped wine, nibbled on food, tried some villains, and held a costume contest for the little ones. Our Judge is working on an iMac movie, but here are a few photos from the evening...

"Forgotten it? Can a man dying of thirst forget water? And do you know what would happen to that thirst if it were to be denied water?"
"This trial... the whole world... it's all... show business." 
"I live for fur. I worship fur."
"Roy Bean. Judge Roy Bean. I am the law in this area."
"Can you see inside me?"
"On a similar note I must confess to you, I'm giving very serious thought... to eating your wife."
Catherine,  Holli Would and Alex
Kate "Ma" Barker, on the witness stand
"This is not gonna stop. It keeps going on and on."
"You play fair with me, I'll play fair with you."
"What are you gonna do? Charge me with smoking?" 
"I have a degree in psychology, it goes with the turf... Games are fun." 
"Then I'll sign it. A pen! Und stratz mit ze uldensackt. I'll sign it! Und stratz mit sei öldensackt, il der, der flutens... , der... , der... , und strippensackt! A pen! I'll sign it. Napaloni, de grosse peanut, de cheesy ravioli. There!"
"White Russian, no ice, no vodka... hold the Kahlua."
Nancy Patricia Pelosi and Harry Mason Reid
"I'm bigger than you and higher up the food chain. Get in my belly. "
"First she steals my publicity. Then she steals my lawyer, my trial date. And now she steals my goddamn garter." 
"I guess you can't think and drive at the same time, huh?" 
"Your chains are still mine! You belong to me!"
Costume contest for the kids, with a winner's trophy and treat bags

And, of course, we had a buffet table of amazing food, and many, many bottles of wine.  Here are just a few treats we enjoyed...

Cruella de Vil's Arancini di Riso 
Ma Barker's decadent Chocolate Voodoo Drunken Zombie Cake, adapted from various recipes, including this one
Cruella de Vil's Red Velvet Dalmatian Spotted Cupcakes

Until we meet again...

Pirates will be next year's theme if you want to start planning...I know John's brain is already churning! For now, I have my clean-shaven, green-eyed man back.

***

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Rustic Italian: Sharing a Tuscan Tradition with Family and Friends

This is a guest post for Gwen, my new and dear friend and chef/author of the fabulous Bunkycooks blog. John and I met Gwen and Mr. Bunkycooks at a food blogging seminar in Southern California earlier this year. Although we can’t be with the Bunkycooks this weekend for Food Blog Forum Atlanta, we are confident they will host a sensational and informative seminar.

In search of something new and different to try, I pulled out Twelve: A Tuscan Cookbook. As the title suggests, this book is a 12-month journey through the tastes of Tuscany, using the freshest ingredients available.


Flipping to the September chapter, I became intrigued by two dishes - Baked Spinach Dumplings and Jam-Filled Ricotta Pastries. Rustic-Italian... I love this style of cooking!

I know the Bunkycooks have dedicated a good portion of their summer to preserving fresh summer tomatoes, peaches, berries and figs. The dumplings work well with fresh or frozen spinach, and fresh or canned tomatoes. The pastries work well with your own preserved jam, or a nice gourmet jam from the market.  Visit Bunkycooks' post on how to make freezer jams, here.

Baked Spinach Dumplings
Malfatti gratinati (sometimes called gnocchi gnudi or ravioli gnudi, nude gnocchi and nude ravioli)
Adapted from Twelve: A Tuscan Cookbook
Serves 6-8 (about 30 dumplings)

1 quantity of Béchamel Sauce (recipe below)
2 cups Simple Tomato Sauce (about ½ the quantity of the recipe below)
2 lb, 10 oz fresh spinach (1 lb, 2 oz cooked spinach) Note: If using frozen spinach, as I did, use 2 lb frozen Chopped Baby Spinach
1 lb, 2 oz fresh ricotta cheese (if you buy a 2 lb. container, you'll have enough for the pastries below)
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and pepper
Butter for greasing baking dish
½ cup all-purpose flour

Prepare the fresh tomato sauce, and set aside.


Cook the spinach according to the package directions, drain, and let cool. When it has cooled, squeeze out the water with your hands (this is important, as extra water will make it difficult for the dumplings to hold their shape).

In a medium bowl, combine the spinach, ricotta cheese, eggs, half the Parmesan cheese and a grating of nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper, and mix with a wooden spoon to make a soft mass. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

While the oven is preheating, prepare the béchamel sauce.

Liberally butter a large baking dish (I used 9 x 12 dish). Spoon a little of the béchamel sauce onto the bottom of the dish to just cover it.

Put the flour on to a flat plate and pat your hands in the flour. Using a tablespoon and your hands, form dumplings the size of a small egg, slightly elongated (about 2 ½ inches long by 1 ½ inches wide). Dust them very lightly in the flour and put them onto the béchamel in neat rows.


Cover with the remaining béchamel. Splash the surface with the tomato sauce and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan cheese.


Bake for 30 minutes, or until the top is lightly golden. Serve hot.



***

Besciamella
Béchamel Sauce
Makes 4 cups

4 cups whole milk
7 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup all-purpose flour
Salt and pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg

Heat the milk in a saucepan. In a separate medium saucepan, melt the butter, and then add the flour. Stir with a wooden spoon and cook for a minute or two until it is lightly golden. Add a ladleful of the warm milk and stir well so it does not form lumps. Continue adding the milk in ladlefuls and stirring constantly until all the milk has been incorporated. Season with salt and pepper, and a generous grating of nutmeg. Continue cooking and stirring on low heat for another 10 minutes to thicken. It should be very smooth. Remove from the heat. Just before using, give it a good whisking.

***

Simple Tomato Sauce
Pomarola Semplice
Makes about 4 cups

4 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed with the flat of a large knife
6 tablespoons olive oil
3 lb ripe, fresh tomatoes, skinned and chopped (or two, 28-ounce cans of San Marzano whole, peeled tomatoes with juice)
Salt and pepper
12 fresh basil leaves, roughly torn

If using canned tomatoes, dump tomatoes and juice into a bowl and break up the tomatoes with your hands. Put the garlic and olive oil into a saucepan over medium heat. When the garlic begins to sizzle, add the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 20-25 minutes, until the tomatoes have melted into a thick, smooth sauce (if using canned tomatoes, the cooking time is slightly less, about 15 minutes from when the tomatoes begin to boil). Add the basil and turn off the heat.

You will need about 2 cups of the tomato sauce for the Baked Spinach Dumplings. The leftover sauce can be stored for 3-4 days in the refrigerator, covered with a thin layer of olive oil, or can be frozen for future use.


***

Jam-Filled Ricotta Pastries
Pastine di ricotta e marmellata
Also from Twelve: A Tuscan Cookbook
Makes about 20 pastries

The pastry for these tarts contains no sugar, so these triangles rely on the jam filling and the dusting of confectioners’ sugar for their sweetness. You can use one or more homemade or bought jams for these pastries, which are lovely for breakfast or dessert. Also, since you need just over a pound of ricotta for the dumplings above, you can buy a 2 lb. container of ricotta and have the perfect amount leftover for these pastries.

7 oz (200 g) unsalted butter, softened
10 ½ oz (300 g) fresh ricotta cheese
10 ½ oz (300 g) all-purpose flour
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
Pinch of salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
10 ½ oz (300 g) jam (I used purchased, gourmet peach preserves)
Eggwash or water for sealing
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

Using a wooden spoon, combine the softened butter with the ricotta cheese in a bowl. Sift together the flour, pinch of salt, and baking powder and incorporate into the butter-ricotta mixture.

Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead together with your hands until the mixture comes together in a soft mass. Cover the pastry with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30-60 minutes before rolling it out.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Roll out the pastry with a rolling pin, on a lightly floured surface, to a 1/8-inch thickness. Cut into 4-inch squares.

Put a heaped teaspoon of the jam into the center of each square, varying the jam flavors if desired. Dip your fingertips in eggwash or a little water and wet the inside of the pastry edge to help seal. Fold over the pastry square into a triangle, and seal the borders firmly with the tongs of a fork (the original recipe did not call for using egg wash or water to seal the pastry, and I experienced a little leakage during baking).

Line a baking sheet with parchment. Arrange the triangles on the baking sheet and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until they are golden. Remove from the oven and cool slightly before serving.

Serve warm or at room temperature, dusted liberally with confectioners’ sugar.

Note: As an afterthought, and for added texture, I might try brushing the tops of pastry triangles with an egg wash and sprinkling with raw sugar just before baking. Or, after baking, drizzing on a glaze of confectioners' sugar and sprinkling with raw sugar...Tuscan Pop-Tarts!


Thank you, Gwen, for the honor of guest posting at Bunkycooks!  We hope to see you soon.

***

Monday, August 30, 2010

Paccheri Pasta with Braised Chicken and Saffron Cream

The Restaurant Issue of Bon Appetit, September 2010, features The 10 Best New Restaurants in America.   Bar La Grassa, in Minneapolis, has a 24-seat pasta bar for the serious eaters, and a long list of pasta dishes, like Paccheri Pasta with Braised Chicken and Saffron Cream. La Grassa means "The Fat" in Italian and refers to the legendary cuisine of Bologna. This pasta dish soaks up flavor from braised chicken, onions, garlic, saffron, white wine, chicken broth, whipping cream, and basil. I wasn't able to find paccheri pasta, and used Rustichella D'Abruzzo's Trenne. Bristol Farms and Whole Foods carries this wonderful brand of Italian pasta.  One of our favorites is the Rustichella D' Abruzzo Bucatini.



Paccheri Pasta with Braised Chicken and Saffron Cream
Bar La Grassa, Minneapolis
Featured in Bon Appetit, September 2010
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

2 1/2 to 2 3/4 pounds chicken thighs with skin and bones
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chopped white onions
6 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed
2 cups dry white wine
1 teaspoon saffron threads, crushed
2 cups (or more) low-salt chicken broth
1 pound paccheri (giant rigatoni) or regular rigatoni
1 cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons (or more) fresh lemon juice
2/3 cup chopped fresh basil


Preparation:

Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken, skin side down, to skillet and cook until golden, about 7 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to plate. Add onions and garlic to drippings in skillet; sauté until onions are slightly softened, 7 to 8 minutes. Add wine and saffron to skillet; bring to boil. Continue to boil until liquid is thickened and reduced by less than half, about 8 minutes. Add 2 cups chicken broth to skillet. Return chicken to skillet; bring to boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover; simmer gently until chicken is very tender (adjust heat to prevent boiling and turn chicken over after 30 minutes), about 1 hour total. Transfer chicken to plate and cool.

Reserve skillet with juices. Remove skin and bones from chicken and discard. Tear chicken meat into bite-size pieces; place in medium bowl and reserve.

Cook pasta in pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain; return to pot.

Meanwhile, spoon off fat from juices in skillet; discard fat (I used my gravy separator with great results). Add cream to juices in skillet and boil until sauce is reduced to 2 1/2 cups and is thick enough to coat spoon, about 10 minutes (more like 15-20 minutes). Stir in 2 tablespoons lemon juice, then chicken pieces. Stir over medium heat until heated through, adding more broth by 1/4 cupfuls to thin sauce as needed (not needed) and adding more lemon juice by teaspoonfuls, if desired (mine was fine without more lemon juice), about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add chicken mixture to pasta in pot and toss to coat. Stir in basil. Transfer pasta to plates.

This was a hit with everyone at our impromptu pasta dinner party!

Wine pairing:  Serve a floral, fruity white wine.