Baby, it's Beginning to Feel a Little Cool Outside: Black Bean & Bacon Soup with Roasted Chiles and Toasted Pepitas

As I sit at my desk and write this post, the sky is gray and gloomy and the leaves on the two big trees in my yard are finally starting to turn. The owner of my cottage advised me these trees will be cut down next month because the roots are lifting and damaging the wall surrounding the yard. I'm not very happy because they provide nice shade and privacy.

I do like that it's getting chilly at night so I can curl up on the couch in the evenings with a soft, furry throw and then snuggle under my down comforter when I go to bed. I still leave most of the windows open at night and like waking up to the sound of the fog horns or Trapper snoring just outside the patio door. He refuses to sleep inside. It's not warm at all in the house, but I guess he just wants to patrol the yard and sleep in the cooler night air. Every once in a while, usually around 2 a.m., he lets out a few deep barks and then goes back to sleep.

Cooler weather means soup weather. While sipping my coffee yesterday morning, I looked through all the new issues of Bon Appetit, Saveur and Fine Cooking. Of course, most of the content is now devoted to Thanksgiving and holiday features and recipes, and comfort food. One of my holiday desserts will be the Bourbon-Caramel Pumpkin Tart on the cover of Fine Cooking. Have you seen it? Oh my, that is most definitely on my list. Saveur's Fall Salad with Roasted Butternut Squash, Kale Chips, and Pomegranate Seeds and Bon Appetit's Wild Rice, Farro and Tangerine Salad are both gorgeous salads for this time of year.

I was in the mood for soup today, and this one started out as Bon Appetit's Black Bean Soup with Roasted Poblano Chiles. It's part of the "Good Health" Thanksgiving Survival Diet, designed to be eaten during the week of Thanksgiving so you don't feel as guilty when indulging on the big day itself. But, since we aren't at that point in time, I was swayed by Dave Lieberman's recipe for Black Bean Soup and had to add some bacon.

The ingredients in the Bon Appetit recipe are few and simple: Low-sodium chicken broth, canned black beans, canned fire-roasted tomatoes, onion, garlic, roasted poblano chiles, and a dried ancho chile. Garnishes are crumbled queso fresco cheese, lime wedges, and toasted pepitas. No bacon. Gotta have some bacon.

Start by roasting the poblano chiles, either under the broiler or over gas flame. While the poblanos are roasting, toast the pepitas and ancho chile.

Next, cook the bacon until it starts to render its fat. Add the onion and garlic, and then the poblanos.

Add the remaining ingredients (broth, tomatoes, beans, ancho chile, ketchup, Worcestershire, and cumin) and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Again, I kind of merged Bon Appetit's and Dave Lieberman's recipes together. I did not blend the onions, garlic, tomatoes and ancho chile in a blender. I used a little less chicken broth so I would have a thicker soup. If you want a thinner soup, add more chicken broth or even a cup of beer. Definitely squeeze some lime juice over the top. The toasted pepitas and queso fresco cheese are really nice garnishes. I also nibbled on a few pumpkin flavored tortilla chips.

Black Bean & Bacon Soup with Roasted Poblano Chiles

Adapted from Bon Appetit's recipe, here, and Dave Lieberman's recipe, here

Serves 6

2 poblano chiles

1/4 cup raw shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

1 large dried ancho chile

6 slices thick bacon, sliced crosswise into thin strips

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 14.5 ounce can fire-roasted, diced tomatoes

2 14.5 ounce cans black beans, drained but not rinsed

2 tablespoons ketchup

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1/2 cup crumbled queso fresco

Lime wedges

Preheat broiler. Broil poblano chiles on a foil-lined baking sheet, turning occasionally, until blackened, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let steam 15 minutes. Peel, seed, and finely chop (I prefer to roast the chiles over the gas flame on top of the stove)

Meanwhile, toast the pumpkin seeds in a small dry skillet over medium-high heat, tossing occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes; transfer to a plate. Toast the ancho chile in same skillet until slightly darkened and pliable, about 1 minute; transfer to plate. When the ancho chile is cool enough to handle, cut off the stem and tear open the chile so you can remove the seeds. Discard the stem and seeds. Leave the chile in one or two large pieces and set aside.

Heat a large heavy pot over medium heat and add the bacon. Saute until it starts to render its fat, about 5 minutes. Stir in the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to turn translucent, about 5 minutes. Add in the chopped poblano chiles and garlic and cook for 2-3 minutes.  Add the broth, tomatoes, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, cumin, and ancho chile. Stir in the beans, turn the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat down so the soup is bubbling gently and cook 10 minutes. Remove and discard the ancho chile. Season the soup with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve soup topped with crumbled queso fresco, toasted pepitas and lime wedges.

It's now almost 4:00 p.m. and the sun is trying to peek out for a few hours. Must be time to get out and play a few rounds of Jolly Ball with Trapper and then find a glass of wine. Enjoy your evening!

Saturday Morning Diversion: Ricotta-Orange Doughnuts Rolled in Cinnamon-Sugar

The San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival is celebrating its 10th anniversary next month (November 18-24) and I'm honored to be one of the official photographers again. One of my photos from last year's Celebrity Chef Luncheon made the cover of this year's Amuse Bouche (read it online here), and another photo, taken a few months ago, is featured inside with a recipe for Chef William Bradley's Butternut Squash Velouté. Chef Bradley will be preparing his velouté for the Haute French Cuisine & Vintage Burgundy Tasting.

I was scrolling through Facebook the other night and came across a post by the SDBWFF linking to a recipe for Gale Gand's ricotta doughnuts. I met Gale last year in the Chef of the Fest judging tent at the Grand Tasting on Saturday and photographed her dessert on Sunday at the Celebrity Chef Luncheon. She returns this year for the Wine Spectator Celebrity Chef Dinner & Big Bottle Live Auction and Gale Gand's Birthday Brunch with Friends.

I couldn't get these doughnuts off my mind and decided to make them Saturday morning. Next time, I'll make the batter the night before, fry them up just before my walk to Starbucks, and make a bunch of new friends over coffee. That way, I won't find myself alone with 20 unbelievably, tasty doughnuts and a drooling Trapper offering to help me eat them all. I forced myself to toss the remaining 17 in a basket, jump in the car, and make the rounds to mom's and a few friends' houses to share.

Gale says, "My Sicilian-American mother-in-law, Vita Seidita, taught me how to make these tender-on-the-inside, crisp-on-the-outside doughnuts, which she often made for her family on Sunday mornings. All the kids would hover near the stove as she lifted the hot doughnuts out of the oil onto a brown paper bag for draining, and then their job was to roll them quickly in cinnamon sugar."

I halved the quantities in the original recipe, added the zest of one orange, and a pinch of nutmeg for a more "traditional doughnut taste" and opted to roll the doughnuts in cinnamon sugar rather than dusting with powdered sugar.  I think the orange zest is a must, especially with the cinnamon sugar route. Super simple to make and totally addicting.

The batter is rather thick, so a small ice cream scoop works well.

Ricotta-Orange Doughnuts

Adapted from this recipe

Makes about 20 doughnuts 

3 large eggs

1/4 cup sugar

8 ounces whole milk ricotta

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

Pinch of nutmeg

Zest from one orange (about 1 tablespoon)

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Canola oil for frying

Cinnamon sugar for rolling (1/3 cup sugar mixed with 1 teaspoon cinnamon)

1. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs. Add sugar, ricotta, flour, baking powder, orange zest and vanilla extract and stir together until combined, being careful not to over mix the batter.

2. In a small bowl, stir together cinnamon and sugar and set aside.

3. Heat 2 to 3 inches of canola oil in a deep, heavy pot to 325°F. Drop the batter by small ice cream scoopfuls or small spoonfuls (use 2 teaspoons) into the oil and fry for 3 minutes, turning often, until golden brown on each side. Fry the doughnuts in 3-4 batches to avoid crowding the pot. Lift out the doughnuts with a slotted spoon and transfer to paper towels or a brown paper bag to drain briefly.

4. Immediately roll doughnuts in cinnamon sugar. Serve while still warm. 

Do-Ahead: You can prepare the batter up to one day ahead, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until you’re ready to fry, but you will have to increase the frying time slightly to compensate for the colder batter.

Finishing Touches

Macaroni & Cheese and Chocolate Chip Cookies sounded like a pretty good plan when I had an unexpected afternoon off work last week. Maybe I was in need of some comforting, but these two recipes from Bon Appetit's January issue caught my attention because they were simple and incorporated finishing touches that elevated simple to gourmet.

For the cookies, a sprinkling of flaky sea salt over the cookie dough balls before baking; for the Mac & Cheese, a panko-butter-garlic-parsley topping. I personalized my Mac & Cheese a bit more with the use of orecchiette instead of macaroni and the addition of some sauteed pancetta to the topping mixture. Another bonus of this Mac & Cheese recipe is that it doesn't require boiling the macaroni. Instead, the dried pasta is tossed with the cheese and then covered with a thinner-than-usual bèchamel sauce. The pasta absorbs the extra sauce and bakes perfectly in just 30 minutes.

I started with the cookies...and never made it to preparing the Mac & Cheese that afternoon (see cookie dough dilemma, below). A few days later, when in need of a quick dinner, I was happy to have the ingredients on hand for the Mac & Cheese. Leftover Mac & Cheese saved me again on St. Paddy's Day, after spending the afternoon at Coronado's infamous McP's Irish Pub. Good thing I used Irish cheddar!

Salted cookie dough balls

Of course, there's the inevitable cookie dough dilemma. Both baking sheets are full and there's just enough cookie dough left for a few cookies. Do you wait until the others are baked and then bake just two or three cookies? Do you make yourself sick by eating too much raw cookie dough because you can't stop yourself? Or do you quickly put the bowl in the sink and fill it with hot, soapy water before you're tempted? The overwhelming response on Newf in My Soup's Facebook page was to eat the dough! Well, that's what I did. And, of course, I had to try one of the cookies when they came out of the oven, all warm and gooey and salty and sweet. By then, I wasn't hungry enough to make the Mac & Cheese so that had to wait a few more days.

Leftover cookie dough dilemma 

Got milk?

Salty Chocolate Chunk Cookies

Bon Appetit, January 2013

Makes 2 dozen cookies

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

3/4 cup (packed) light brown sugar

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup powdered sugar

2 large egg yolks

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

8 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate (do not exceed 72% cacao), coarsely chopped (I used 8 oz. semi-sweet chocolate chips)

Maldon or other flaky sea salt

Preparation

Position racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat to 375° F. Line two baking sheets with parchment or silicone mats.

In a medium bowl, whisk flour, baking powder, kosher salt, and baking.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat butter, brown sugar, sugar, and powdered sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3-4 minutes. Add egg yolks, egg, and vanilla and beat, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl, until mixture is pale and fluffy, about 4-5 minutes. Reduce mixer speed to low and add dry ingredients in three additions, mixing just to blend. Fold in chocolate chips or chunks with a rubber spatula.

Using a small ice cream scoop or spoon, spoon rounded tablespoonfuls of cookie dough onto prepared baking sheets, spacing 1-inch apart. Sprinkle cookies with sea salt.

Bake cookies, rotating sheets halfway through, until just golden brown around the edges, about 10-12 minutes. Let cool slightly on baking sheets, then transfer to wire racks; let cool completely.

Cookie Monster  

***

Here's the No-Boil Mac & Cheese...I'll borrow my mom's quote, after she enjoyed some of the leftovers -  "That was about the best Mac & Cheese I've ever had!  Seriously good stuff.  Never cared for the sharp cheddar cheesy stuff, but liked to pick at the dryer, crustier corners and this is sort of like the whole thing is kind of crunchy.  It certainly is blog worthy!  Thanks for sharing.  Enjoyed it a lot."

Beautiful, golden brown panko crust 

Just the right amount of creaminess and crunch

No Boil Mac & Cheese
Bon Appetit, January 2013
Serves 6-8

Ingredients

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
1 tablespoon kosher salt plus more
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper plus more
1 pound elbow macaroni (I used orecchiette)
2 cups shredded cheddar, divided (I used Irish white cheddar)
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Preparation

Preheat oven to 400°. Melt 1/4 cup of the butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 1 minute. Whisk in milk and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook, whisking often, until a very thin, glossy sauce forms, about 10 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Remove sauce from heat.

Toss pasta and 1 1/2 cups cheese in a 13 x 9 x 2-inch or other shallow 3-quart baking dish. Pour sauce over (pasta should be submerged; do not stir) and cover with foil. Bake until pasta is almost tender, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt remaining 1/4 cup butter in a large skillet over medium heat (at this point, I sauteed about 1/4 cup chopped pancetta for a few minutes before adding the remaining ingredients). Add garlic, panko, and parsley and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove foil from dish. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup cheese, then panko mixture. Bake until pasta is tender, edges are bubbling, and top is golden brown, about 10 minutes longer. Let sit 10 minutes before serving.

***

Monday Morning Blues and a Pasta Fix

Trapper shared my Monday morning blues. Within moments of being tossed outside on a rainy day, he retreated to the shelter of the doorstep sporting a kinky hairdo and look of disgust. Less than 10 minutes later, I was stranded on the side of the freeway with a flat tire, in pouring down rain and rush hour traffic. My hair was also frizzed from the rain and I can assure you my look of disgust wasn't nearly as cute. I called work, only to find out the network was down and there was no point coming in. So, I waited for the CHP to escort me off the freeway and John to come to my rescue. Razor blade in my tire. Nice.

The storm has passed, the sun is shining, and Trapper is still adorable. He's quite content with our early morning Starbucks routine, and is rapidly accumulating his own fandom. Brother Nicolas may come for a puppy play date on Sunday, and puppy photos are likely to continue for quite some time.

Several days of rain...

Sunny skies and flowers in bloom to welcome spring...

Inspiration for this Rigatoni alla Castellana came from Il Fornaio's Trentino-Alto Adige menu, and two leftover pork chops. In addition to thinly sliced pork and thick, chewy rigatoni pasta, it soaks up flavor from bacon, cream, brandy and cheese. But the fattening ingredients are balanced by a healthier additions - shiitake mushrooms, garlic, shallots, thyme, and a few handfuls of fresh spinach. A small serving (with a hefty glass of wine) is all I needed to chase away my Monday blues, bid farewell to the rain, and welcome the first day of spring.

Rigatoni alla Castellana
Inspired by Il Fornaio
Serves 4

Ingredients:

½ cup stemmed dried shiitake mushrooms

1 cup hot water

12 ounces rigatoni pasta

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 slices thick bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4 inch pieces

4 ounces thinly sliced cooked pork (from leftover pork chops or tenderloin)

¼ cup minced shallots

2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup brandy

1 ½ cups heavy cream

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 ounces fresh baby spinach

½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Preparation:

1.  Place the dried mushrooms in a medium bowl, cover with the hot water, and let sit until reconstituted and soft, about 15 minutes. Drain the mushrooms and their liquid through a fine mesh strainer into a clean bowl, squeezing the mushrooms to extract as much liquid as possible. Reserve ½ cup of the liquid and roughly chop the mushrooms. Set aside.

2.  Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the rigatoni and cook until al dente, 10-12 minutes (or according to package directions).

3.  Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and sauté until browned and just slightly crisp, but still chewy.  Remove the bacon from the pan with a slotted spoon onto a paper towel and set aside.

4.  Add the shallots to the pan and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the chopped mushrooms, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the ½ cup reserved mushroom liquid, and ¼ cup brandy, and bring to a boil, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is nearly all evaporated. Add the cream, thyme, salt, and pepper and return to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the cream is reduced and thick, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the half of the cheese and stir to incorporate. Add the bacon, sliced pork and spinach and heat just until the pork is warmed through and the spinach is slightly wilted.

5. Drain the pasta and add to the pan with the sauce, tossing well to coat. 

6. Divide the pasta between four serving bowls, garnish each with the remaining cheese, and serve immediately.

A Weekend of Irish Weather: Steak and Stilton Pies and Soda Bread

May you always have walls for the winds,

a roof for the rain, tea beside the fire,

laughter to cheer you, those you love near you,

and all your heart might desire.

It felt like Ireland this past weekend, with all the wind, rain and hail, and it's still raining this Monday morning. However, rainy days are ideal days to spend in the kitchen, and that's what I did most of Saturday, preparing a small St. Patrick's Day dinner, and Sunday, making a pot of soup.

I had seen these English Steak and Stilton Pies in Saveur back in October, and they resurfaced in my brain on Saturday morning as an option for our St. Patrick's Day dinner. Although English in origin, the combination of beef, Stilton, and vegetables, all bathed in a rich stout and beef gravy, and topped with a buttery puff pastry crust, sounded comforting on a rainy St. Paddy's day. You could easily substitute lamb for the beef, and even add some potatoes, for a more traditional Irish dish.

I set up Trapper puppy's pen in the breakfast nook so he could see me, turned on some Irish music, poured a glass of Sparkling Shiraz, and started chopping and sauteing. Of course, Dooley was also there, sprawled out across the kitchen floor in his usual spot. Once everything was in the pot simmering, I had time to make a loaf of Irish Soda Bread.

You can use 6" pie tins per the recipe, ramekins or bowls. My only option was these lion's head bowls, and they worked just fine. You're also supposed to cut the pastry into rounds, but I cut the dough into squares, and just scrunched it up for a more rustic look. I also made a few adjustments to the recipe, adding a little more carrots and celery, and reducing the onions, rosemary, and cheese. The flavor of the cheese was still pronounced, but I think it would have been overbearing with the full 6 ounces. For the stout, I was able to snag the last bottle of Speedway Stout off the shelf.

Steak and Stilton Pies

Slightly adapted from Saveur

Makes 4 individual pies

Ingredients:

1/4 cup olive oil

1 1/2 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1" cubes

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 medium yellow onions, sliced

3 ribs celery, thickly sliced

3 small carrots, thickly sliced

1 tablespoon minced rosemary

1 12-ounce bottle stout beer

1/4 cup cup flour

2 cups beef stock

2 teaspoons mustard powder

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

10 ounces mushrooms, quartered 

4 ounces English Stilton (or other blue cheese or Gorgonzola), crumbled

1 10-ounce package frozen peas

1 sheet puff pastry from 14-oz. package puff pastry, thawed

1 egg, lightly beaten

Preparation:

Heat oil in an 8-quart dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season beef with salt and pepper, cook until browned, 10–12 minutes, and transfer to a bowl. Add garlic, onions, celery, carrots, and rosemary to pan, and saute until soft, 10–12 minutes. Add beer, and allow to reduce until all the liquid is absorbed, 18–20 minutes. Add flour and stir until smooth. Return beef to pan, and add stock, mustard powder, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, cover partially, and cook for 1½ hours.  Turn off head and set aside.

Heat butter in a 10″ skillet over high heat. Add mushrooms and saute until browned, about 8 minutes. Add mushrooms, peas and cheese to the beef filling.

Heat oven to 375° F. Divide beef filling among four ramekins or 6" pie tins (12 ounce capacity). Roll pastry into a 14" square; cut out four pieces. Brush ramekin or tin edges with egg, and place one piece of pastry over each.  Press to seal.  Cut a couple slits into pastry and brush with egg. Bake until browned, about 40 minutes.  Allow to cool 5-10 minutes and serve.

Irish Soda Bread and a few St. Paddy's Day decorations

Irish Soda Bread

Slightly adapted from Barefoot Contessa

Ingredients:

4 cups all-purpose flour (I used 2 cups all-purpose and 2 cups whole wheat)

4 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 1/2 cups cold buttermilk, shaken

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

1 cup currants

1/2 cup Irish Whiskey (optional)

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper.

In a microwave-safe bowl, combine the currants and whiskey and heat on high for 45 seconds. Set aside.

Combine the flours, sugar, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the butter is mixed into the flour.

With a fork, lightly beat the buttermilk, egg, and orange zest together in a measuring cup. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture. Drain the currants and mix into the dough. The dough will be very wet.

Dump the dough onto a well-floured board and knead it a few times into a round loaf. Place the loaf on the prepared baking sheet and lightly cut an X into the top of the bread with a serrated knife. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. When you tap the loaf, it will have a hollow sound.

Cool on a baking rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

For a spur of the moment St. Patrick's Day dinner, this was just about perfect.  Now, PLEASE stop raining!

Horses, Barns and Soups

During our stay at The Home Ranch, on a very cold, but relaxing morning, we bundled up, left the warmth of the lodge, and walked down the driveway to the pasture and barn. The youngsters were particularly curious, and willing to lose their space around the hay feeder to come say hello. This yearling followed me around like a puppy dog, and insisted on nibbling at my jacket every time I tried to take a picture.

John had his own little romance going on a few feet away...

We could have spent hours in the old barn, photographing the weathered wood, windows, rusty hardware, chaps and hats hanging on the walls, and tack.

These are two of my favorite necklaces, made by Jodi Rosano out of her home here in San Diego.  She uses tips from naturally shed antlers, shells, crystals from antique chandeliers, gemstones, pearls, and antique chains, to create her pieces.   Jodi's tag line is Glamour Comes to the Ranch, so I thought it would be fun to photograph my necklaces in the barn.

After having our gloves off for an hour, our hands were numb and it was time to gather in the dining room for a bowl of hot soup. At least two different homemade soups were offered for lunch every day, in addition to salads, hot entrees, and dessert.

Since we've back from the ranch, I've made a couple of big pots of soup for us and mom. Last weekend, I tried Dave Lieberman's Split Pea with Smoked Ham Hock Soup (with Whole Foods' Wellshire Smoked Ham Shank), and Azorean Kale, Sausage and Bean Soup, from David Leite's My New Portuguese Table. Both soups warm you right up, are ideal for a quick lunch or dinner this time of year, and freeze well. If you have enough freezer space, make double batches!

I made some slight changes to this soup, using cannellini beans instead of kidney beans, and chicken broth instead of beef. David adds an additional step to give the soup a little extra body. While the soup is simmering, he suggests spooning a third of the beans and a bit of the soup broth into a food processor, pulsing to make a loose paste, then, if desired, passing the paste through a sieve, and adding the paste back to the soup. I was lazy and omitted this step, but I'm sure it does add body and creaminess.  The original recipe is published here.

Azorean Kale, Chorizo and Cannellini Bean Soup
Adapted slightly from The New Portuguese Table, by David Leite
(8 servings)

Ingredients:

1 pound dried cannellini beans, picked over, rinsed, and soaked overnight in water to cover by 3 inches
2 tablespoons olive oil, or more if needed
8 ounces chouriço, linguiça, or dry-cured smoked Spanish chorizo, cut into 1/4-inch coins
2 large yellow onions, chopped
1 Turkish bay leaf
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
4 cups homemade chicken stock, or low-sodium store bought broth
1 1/2 pounds red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 bunch kale (about 1/2 pound), thick center stems and fibrous veins removed, torn into pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation:

Drain the beans, dump them into a medium saucepan, and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the beans are tender but still hold their shape, about 45 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat until it shimmers. Toss in the chorizo and saute until browned, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove the slices with a slotted spoon and transfer to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat from the pot, or if the pot is dry, drizzle in more oil so you have 3 tablespoons. Add the onions and bay leaf and cook, stirring often, until the onions are deeply golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary to prevent the onions from burning.

Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the chicken stock and 5 cups of water, add the potatoes, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the potatoes are just tender, 10 to 12 minutes.

When the potatoes are cooked, stir in the kale, chorizo, and beans. Turn off the heat and let the soup sit for 10 minutes to marry the flavors.

Remove the bay leaf, season the soup with salt and pepper to taste, and ladle into warm bowls.

Serve with crusty bread and a nice bottle of wine.

Sunsets, Shrimp, and Slow-Cooker Grits

When I look back over my blog posts for 2010, I am reminded that many of our favorite dishes have been Southern - inspired by our trip to New Orleans, cookbooks by John Besh and Donald Link, and the abundance of fresh seafood available in San Diego. In fact, the Blogher Publishing Network just featured my Gumbo post, along with Besh's My New Orleans cookbook, in its Holiday Food Guide!

In addition to making gumbo several times this past year, Shrimp and Grits has made a few appearances on our table. And please don't get me drooling over Fried Oyster and Bacon Sandwiches or Beignets, a few more southern favorites we've ordered in restaurants and then recreated at home.

On a recent stormy evening, we tried yet another version of Shrimp and Grits, this time from Michael Ruhlman.  Although I didn't butter poach the shrimp, I followed the method of cooking the grits in a crock pot for about eight hours.  Eve Felder, a chef instructor at the Culinary Institute of America, and native of Charleston, South Carolina, recommends slow cooking the grits for hours to achieve the perfect consistency.

If I was out clamming in the cold surf like these two guys in the photos below, a bowl of hot, creamy grits and butter-poached or sauteed shrimp would be most appreciated when I came home.  John was out photographing at the beach last week, while I was still stuck behind my desk at work, and came home with these beautiful shots.
 

Sauteed Shrimp and Slow-Cooker Grits

Adapted from Michael Ruhlman

Serves 4

4 ounces chorizo, cut into small dice
1 medium onion, cut into small dice
1 1/4 cups high-quality stoneground grits
2 cups milk
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound large, uncooked shrimp, peeled and deveined
4 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
4 lemon wedges

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, saute the chorizo for about 5 minutes.  Add the onion, season with a pinch of salt, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.

Add the grits and stir. Add the milk, and 2 cups of water. Raise the heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cook the grits, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes. Add several grinds of black pepper to the grits. Add more milk or water as needed (about 2 cups more) to keep the mixture fluid. Transfer the grits to a slow-cooker set to low, and cover.  Monitor the moisture level, adding milk or water as needed, and stir occasionally.  Cook for about 8 hours.  Taste and add a touch more salt to taste.

Again, I didn't butter poach the shrimp this time, but you can follow Michael Ruhlman's step by step instructions and recipe here (I simply sauteed the shrimp in about 4 tablespoon of butter, just until pink and cooked through, about 3-4 minutes).

Spoon the grits into bowls, and arrange the sauteed shrimp over the top.  Garnish with parsley, freshly ground pepper, and a squeeze of lemon.

I initially plated our shrimp and grits in these little cast iron pans, but we both wanted a much larger serving!

  

The Daring Cooks Let the Good Times Roll: Seafood Gumbo

This post is Part II of my May Daring Cooks' Challenge for The Daring Kitchen. Please click here for the Challenge Introduction, and the recipe for Drew's Chicken & Smoked Sausage Gumbo.

This Seafood Gumbo is also from My New Orleans: The Cookbook. It is rich a dark roux, trinity of vegetables, homemade seafood stock, shrimp, blue and/or lump crab, smoked sausage, shucked oysters, and creole spices. Deep-fried okra and sliced green onions provide a colorful and tasty garnish.

Seafood Gumbo
Minimally adapted from My New Orleans: The Cookbook
Servings: 10

Ingredients:

1 cup canola oil
1 cup flour
2 large onions, diced
6 jumbo blue crabs, each cut into four pieces (if unavailable, omit, or substitute another type of crab)
1 pound spicy smoked sausage links, sliced ½ inch thick (optional, but encouraged if you eat sausage)
1 stalk celery, diced
1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup sliced fresh okra, ½ -inch thick slices (or frozen, if fresh is not available). If fresh or frozen is unavailable, you can leave it out because the roux will provide enough of a thickener.
Leaves from sprig of fresh thyme
3 quarts shrimp stock (recipe below)
2 bay leaves
1 pound peeled and deveined medium Louisiana or wild shrimp. (Note: If you are buying whole, head-on shrimp, which you will need in order to use the heads and peels for stock, you will then need approximately 4 pounds  of shrimp to yield enough heads/shells for the stock. Although the recipe only calls for 1 pound of shrimp, you will end up with a little over 2 pounds of cleaned shrimp, which I found was perfect for this size pot of gumbo)
1 pint shucked oysters
8 ounces lump crabmeat
1 cup minced green onions
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Basic Creole Spices, to taste (recipe below)
Worcestershire, to taste
Tabasco, to taste
4-6 cups cooked Basic Louisiana White Rice (recipe follows)

Directions:

1. Prepare Shrimp Stock, if using (recipe below).

2. Prepare homemade Basic Creole Spices, if using (recipe below).

3. Make sure all of your vegetables are cut, diced, chopped, minced and ready to go before beginning the roux. You must stand at the stove and stir the roux continuously to prevent it from burning.

4. In a large cast-iron or heavy-bottomed pan, heat the canola oil over high heat. Whisk the flour into the hot oil – it will start to sizzle. Reduce the heat to moderate, and continue whisking until the roux becomes deep brown in color, about 15 minutes.

5. Add the onions. Switch to a wooden spoon and stir the onions into the roux. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and continue stirring until the roux becomes a glossy dark brown, about 10 minutes.

6. Add the blue crabs and smoked sausage and stir for a minute before adding the celery, bell peppers, garlic, and okra. Increase the heat to moderate and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes.

7. Add the thyme, shellfish stock, and bay leaves. Bring the gumbo to a boil, stirring occasionally.

8. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Stir occasionally, skimming off the fat from the surface of the gumbo every so often.

9. Add the shrimp, oysters, crabmeat and green onions to the pot and cook for 15 minutes. Make sure everything is ready to serve before adding the shellfish to the gumbo. DO NOT OVERCOOK your shellfish.

10. Season with salt and pepper, Creole Spices, Worcestershire, and Tabasco.

11. Serve in bowls over rice.

***

Basic Shrimp Stock
Adapted from  My New Orleans: The Cookbook and Real Cajun: Rustic Home Cooking from Donald Link's Louisiana
Servings: About 3 quarts

Ingredients:

¼ cup canola oil
Shells and heads from 4 pounds shrimp (prawns)
1 tablespoon Basic Creole Spices (recipe below)
1 large onion coarsely chopped
2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
6 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
2 cups dry white wine (optional)
3 ½ quarts water

Directions:

1. Heat the canola oil in a large stockpot over moderate heat. When the oil begins to smoke slightly, add the shells and paprika. Stir continuously, for 2 minutes, until the shells crisp up and turn pink.

2. Add the onion, celery, carrot, garlic, rosemary, thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.

3. Add the white wine (skip this step if not using wine) and bring to a boil. Allow the wine to reduce for an additional 5 minutes.

4. Add the water and return to a boil. Reduce heat to low, and simmer, uncovered, skimming off any foam or oil that rises to the surface, for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

5. Strain through a fine sieve into a large bowl. Discard all the solids. Allow the stock to cool, cover and refrigerate, then skim off the fat. Use immediately, or freeze for later use.

***

Basic Louisiana White Rice

From My New Orleans: The Cookbook
Servings: About 4 cups

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon chicken fat, extra-virgin olive oil, or butter
1 small onion, minced
1½ cups Louisiana (or another long-grain white rice)
3 cups Basic Chicken Stock
1 bay leaf
1-2 pinches salt

Directions:

1. Put the fat, oil, or butter and the onions into a medium saucepan and sweat the onions over moderate heat until they are translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Pour the rice into the pan and stir for 2 minutes.

3. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil.

4. Add the bay leaf and salt.

5. Cover the pan with a lid, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 18 minutes.

6. Remove the pan from the heat, fluff the rice with a fork, and serve.

***

Basic Creole Spices
From  My New Orleans: The Cookbook
Makes ½ cup

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons celery salt
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon ground allspice

Directions:

Mix together all spices in a bowl. Transfer the spices to a clean container with a tight-fitting lid. Store up to six months.