Showing posts with label New Mexican cuisine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Mexican cuisine. Show all posts

Monday, August 9, 2010

Mark Miller's Tacos Al Pastor with Roasted Pineapple-Habanero Chile Salsa, and David Leite's Pine Nut & Orange Cookies

There are times when a woman needs her alone-time, and this weekend happened to provide several precious hours while John spent overdue father-son time with Alex, who is visiting from Texas. The boys went off to play airsoft on Sunday, leaving me to play in the kitchen with Mark Miller's Tacos Al Pastor recipe. I got lost in Keith Urban, and sipped wine, all the while stemming and seeding 80 dried chiles. Yes, 80! I'll revisit that number, shortly.


I've been eyeing this recipe, featured on the cover of Tacos, since falling in love with El Agave's version.  I love to escape to El Agave for lunch, typically on a one o'clock Friday (i.e., when I've had enough of the law for the week and am ready to start my weekend early). El Agave is known for its tequila collection and moles. For the longest time, I ordered enchiladas with mole verde, but lately I've been all over their Tacos al Pastor.


I've tried a few of the premium tequilas, which are so smooth and meant to be sipped like fine wine, but I prefer my tequila mixed in the bartender's very special Cadillac Margaritas.

With Tacos as our theme for this past week's Concert in the Park, it was the perfect opportunity to try the cover recipe of Tacos.  In the process, I stumbled upon Gonzalez Northgate Market, a wonderful Mexican market about 10 minutes away, where I was able to find everything I needed, including three varieties of dried chiles, and fresh, warm, corn tortillas from the tortilleria.  I bought blue corn for homemade chips and small 5 1/2 inch white corn for the tacos.



Tacos Al Pastor
Adapted from Mark Miller's Tacos
(Makes 24 tacos**)

**Note:  This recipe makes approximately 12 cups of marinade, really enough to marinate pork for about 100 tacos.  I strongly felt 3 cups was plenty to marinade the 4 pounds of pork cubes and just couldn't see wasting all that extra chile goodness. The pork would have been absolutely drowning in the marinade, which is then drained off before cooking. Therefore, I used 3 cups for the 4 lbs. of pork, and froze three containers, with 3 cups in each container, for future tacos. Don't try to reduce the other ingredients to make a smaller portion; the labor of this recipe is so worth having leftovers in the freezer.

Ingredients:

40 dried guajillo chiles
20 dried ancho chiles
20 dried pasilla negro chiles


2 1/2 cups fresh orange juice
Grated zest of 1 orange
1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar
9 cloves garlic
1 1/2 tablespoons cumin seed, toasted and ground
1 1/2 tablespoons dried Mexican oregano, toasted and ground
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons distilled vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
6 ounces cola
8 ounces Mexican beer
4 pounds pork shoulder, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
24 (5 1/2 inch) soft white corn tortillas, for serving

***
Stem, seed, and rehydrate the dried chiles. To rehydrate, I simply steamed the chiles for about 25 minutes. Drain and set aside, reserving the steaming liquid.


In a small saucepan, simmer the orange juice over medium-low heat until reduced by half; set aside. In the jar of a blender, puree the rehydrated chiles until smooth, adding some of the steaming water, to achieve a smooth consistency.

In a large bowl, add the reduced orange juice, pureed chiles, orange zest, brown sugar, garlic, cumin, oregano, salt, black pepper, vinegar, lime juice, cola, and beer and stir to mix well. Add 3 cups of the chile sauce to the pork, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator overnight. Again, I froze the remaining 9 cups of sauce for future use.

When ready to cook, remove the pork from the marinade and drain well (my chile marinade was fairly thick, so it didn't really "drain well.")  If cooking the pork on the stove-top:  In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Saute the pork pieces until meat is cooked through, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat and serve right away, or keep warm in the pan until ready to serve (I grilled the pork at the park, on the cast iron reversible griddle insert for our grill.  The aroma of chiles drifted across the crowd, luring a few curious onlookers who always inquire if our food is for sale).


To serve, lay the tortillas side by side, open face and overlapping on a platter. Divide the filling equally between the tortillas and top with pineapple-habanero salsa. Grab, fold, and eat right away. Or build your own taco; lay a tortilla, open face, in one hand. Spoon on some filling, top with salsa, fold, and eat right away.

Mark Miller suggests his Roasted Pineapple-Habanero Chile Salsa as an accompaniment to these tacos. Don't question the man, just do it. The heat level of the chiles in the Tacos Al Pastor is fairly mild, 3-4 on a scale of 1-10, but this salsa will kick it up to an 8-9, thank you to just ONE of these dry-roasted babies.


Roasted Pineapple-Habanero Chile Salsa
Also from Mark Miller's Tacos

1 pineapple (about 3 1/2 pounds), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch thick rings
1 orange or red habanero, roasted, seeded and minced
1 sweet red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/8-inch dice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

In a large, heavy nonstick dry skillet, cook the pineapple slices (in batches, if necessary) over low heat until caramelized, 6 to 7 minutes per side. (It is important to cook the pineapple on low heat so the sugars in the fruit develop deep flavor, without any burning.) Remove from the heat and cut the pineapple into 1/8-inch dice.

In a large bowl, mix the diced pineapple with the chile, bell pepper, cilantro, and lime juice. Serve immediately for the freshest flavor, but you can make this salsa 1 to 3 hours ahead.



See the Taco Update at the end of this post for the leftovers!

***
For dessert, from the latest issue of Fine Cooking, I baked Pine Nut and Orange Cookies, from David Leite's New Portuguese Table.  I highly recommend these cookies, and they worked wonderfully with the southwest-inspired menu!


Pine Nut and Orange Cookies
Slightly adapted from David Leite's The New Portuguese Table: Exciting Flavors from Europe's Western Coast
Makes 2 dozen cookies

Ingredients:

1/2 cup pine nuts
6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar; more for rolling
3 Tbs. finely grated orange zest (from 2 medium oranges)
1/4 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large egg, beaten
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier liqueur

Directions:

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.

Toast the pine nuts in a pan over medium heat, or on a rimmed baking sheet, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl to cool.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, zest, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and pine nuts.


In a small bowl, whisk the oil, egg and Grand Marnier, and add to the dry ingredients.

Mix with your hands until the dough is evenly moist and holds together when squeezed, 1 to 2 minutes.


Fill a small bowl with about 1/2 cup sugar. Pinch off 1 rounded teaspoonful of dough (about 1/2 oz.). Shape it into a ball, coat it in the sugar, and set it in on a light-colored nonstick cookie sheet. Dip the bottom of a drinking glass in the sugar and flatten the cookie to slightly less than 1/4 inch thick. Repeat to make 11 more cookies.



Bake until the tops are golden and the edges are golden brown, 9 to 13 minutes. Let the cookies cool on the sheet for several minutes, then transfer them to a rack to cool completely (the tops don't get brown, just a little around the edges, but the bottom is golden brown).


While the first batch of cookies bakes, shape the remaining dough into cookies and arrange on a second cookie sheet. When the first batch is done, bake the second batch. The cookies will keep in an air-tight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.


Our Concert group was light this week due to the lucky ones who are traveling. However, we never fail to go hungry, and this week was no exception. After our Tacos Al Pastor, we stuffed our faces with nibbled on my Pine Nut and Orange Cookies and Carmen's dessert tacos, filled with exotic fruit, custard sauce, warm chocolate sauce, and whipped cream.


For the next concert, by the Lamb's Players Theatre, we decided on dishes inspired by Broadway plays and musicals....please, no cats.

TACO UPDATE:  We didn't cook all of the marinated pork at the park, so we were lucky enough to have Taco Tuesday!  This time, I cut the pork in a little smaller pieces and cooked it in a skillet on the stove.  I rewarmed a few tortillas, served the leftover Pineapple Habanero salsa on the side, and fell in love all over again!



Friday, May 14, 2010

Crab Enchiladas con Chile Amarillo, for Mother's Day and the May Daring Cooks' Challenge

The May 2010 Daring Cooks' Challenge was to create enchiladas. Our hosts this month, Barbara of Barbara Bakes and Bunnee of Anna+Food chose a delicious Stacked Green Chile and Grilled Chicken Enchilada recipe in celebration of Cinco de Mayo! The recipe, featuring a homemade enchilada sauce was found on http://www.finecooking.com/ and written by Robb Walsh.

For this challenge, we were not required to use the chosen recipe.  We were encouraged, but not required, to make homemade tortillas, and we were free to make any homemade Mexican-style sauce, as long as it was challenging and daring, such as mole or a tomato-based sauce.  We were also given the liberty of using something other than chicken in the enchilada filling.

During the first week in May, I prefer celebrating the Kentucky Derby over Cinco de Mayo.  However, in celebration of Mother's Day I offered to prepare my Daring Cooks' Challenge for mom. My inspiration was New Mexico, via MARK MILLER'S INDIAN MARKET COOKBOOK, Recipes from Santa Fe's Coyota Cafe.

Although I do have several pounds of roasted Hatch green chiles in my freezer, and absolutely love their flavor, Mark's recipe for Crab Enchiladas with a blackened yellow tomato sauce was too intriguing to pass up. It also appeared to be a lighter, healthier, version of enchiladas - better for those of us who are frantically trying to get "summer ready."  The succulent crab filling, with lump crab, red and yellow bell peppers, roasted corn, serrano chile, and fresh herbs, is gently rolled inside delicate homemade crepes flavored with fresh corn kernels and green chile powder. The enchiladas are baked briefly, placed on top of a pool of blackened yellow tomato sauce, and garnished with a small mound of pickled carrot, jicama and pineapple slaw. For our first course, I served Yellow Summer Squash Soup with Red Chile Crema, also from Mark's cookbook. The colors in this dish are so vibrant!


Crab Enchiladas con Chile Amarillo
Crab Rolled in Green Chile Corn Crepes with Blackened Yellow Tomato Sauce and Pickled Carrot-Jicama Slaw
Adapted ever so slightly from Mark Miller's Indian Market Cookbook

Crab Filling
1 cup lump crab meat
1 Tablespoon seeded and minced red bell pepper
1 Tablespoon seeded and minced yellow bell pepper
1 cup fresh corn kernels, roasted (on a grill or over your stove's gas flame)
1 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram
1 Tablespoon minced fresh basil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 serrano chile, seeded and minced
  • Thoroughly combine all Crab Filling ingredients in a bowl.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.


Pickled Carrot-Jicama Slaw
1 cup finely julienned carrot
1/2 cup finely julienned jicama
1/2 cup finely julienned pineapple
1 serrano chile, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar
1 Tablespoon minced fresh basil
  • Thoroughly combine all Slaw ingredients in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Crepes
1/2 cup milk
3/4 cup fresh corn kernals
3/4 cup all purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoons green chile powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup softened, unsalted butter plus 1 Tablespoon for buttering baking dish
1 egg
2 Tablespoons water
1 Tablespoon vegetable oil
  • Puree the milk and corn together in a blender and strain through a sieve into a mixing bowl.
  • In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine the flour, chile powder, and salt. Cream in the butter and mix in the egg. Add the water and the corn-milk mixture and mix until all lumps are eliminated.
  • Heat a crepe pan and brush pan with vegetable oil.  Ladle in enough batter to make a thin crepe and cook over medium-high heat for about 30 seconds per side, until lightly browned.  Repeat for remaining batter (8 crepes), stacking the cooked crepes between parchment or waxed paper to keep them from sticking together.
Blackened Yellow Tomato Sauce
1/2 Tablespoon peanut oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 Tablespoon minced ginger
2 Yellow tomatoes (about 1 lb.), skin blackened over gas flame or under broiler
1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon bottled Habanero Chile Sauce
1/2 Tablespoon fresh basil
  • Heat the oil in a saute pan and saute the garlic and ginger over high heat for 2 minutes, being careful not to brown the mixture.
  • Yransfer to a blender and add the tomatoes, water, salt, and hot sauce. Blend until just combined and textured, rather than smooth. Add the basil and pulse to incorporate.
  • Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
  • Warm before serving.

Assembly, Baking and Plating
  • Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
  • Butter a baking dish with the remaining tablespoon of unsalted butter
  • Divide the crab filling between the crepes, roll up, and place in baking dish.
  • Bake for about 8 minutes.
  • To serve, ladle about 1/2 cup of the rewarmed, roasted yellow tomato sauce onto each plate.  Place two crepes on top of the sauce, and garnish with a small mound of slaw.

While writing this post, I started craving the wonderful heat and flavor of New Mexico Hatch green chiles and decided to go for Round Two. I stopped for some tomatillos and chicken breasts, defrosted a package of those roasted Hatch chiles I mentioned earlier, and whipped up Fine Cooking's Stacked Green Chile and Chicken Enchiladas.  You can find the recipe, here.

Many of the Daring Cooks were unable to find fresh tomatillos, but it wasn't a problem here in San Diego.


I used Queso Anejo Enchilado cheese, one of John's favorites, instead of Monterey Jack, and garnished the stack with a little leftover Carrot-Jicama Slaw.


Oh my, memories of Santa Fe! These chiles pack the heat and flavor like no other!

Thank you, Barbara and Anna, for hosting this month's Challenge!  Please visit The Daring Kitchen for all of the Challenge recipes, and take a stroll through the Daring Cooks' Blogroll to see what some of the other daring members created this month!
***

You may be interested in these recipes from Mark Miller's Tacos and Indian Market Cookbooks...



Spicy Pacific Tartares - Salmon with Smoked Chiles and Ahi Tuna with Serrano-Cilantro Mayonnaise