French Fridays with Dorie: Garlicky Crumb-Coated Broccoli

Let's face it, steamed broccoli doesn't have much sex appeal. Roasting is our preferred method, but it takes a little longer, because you need to briefly blanch the broccoli first. I usually toss it in a little olive oil and sprinkle it with Parmesan cheese before roasting, and then squeeze lemon juice over the top as it comes out of the oven.

This week's French Fridays with Dorie recipe, Garlicky Crumb-Coated Broccoli, provides another wonderful alternative. Dorie convinces us that rolling broccoli around in some buttery bread crumbs flavored with garlic, lemon and herbs is quick, easy, and transformative...and she's right on again, with another great recipe from Around My French Table: More Than 300 Recipes from My Home to Yours.

After attending Il Fornaio's Tuesday Night Tasting of Italian food and wine from the Basilicata region, I still had Italy on the brain. I pulled out my Italy: The Beautiful Cookbook, vaguely recalling a Sicilian swordfish recipe. When I read it again, I knew it would pair well with the broccoli and a few roasted fingerling potatoes.

Teglia di Pesce Spada is swordfish steaks marinated in white wine and garlic for about an hour, drained, sprinkled with a little breadcrumbs and chopped capers, and sauteed in a little olive oil with a periodic basting of the reserved marinade. At the end of the brief cooking, you pour a whisked mixture of olive oil, reserved marinade, and lemon juice over the top of the swordfish, cook a few more minutes, and add a few more capers for garnish.

We had a half of a lemon basil baguette left over from earlier in the week, so I tore that up, toasted the pieces briefly under the broiler, and whizzed them in the food processor to make my breadcrumbs for the swordfish and the broccoli. I substituted baby broccoli, also known as broccolini, which is a hybrid cross of broccoli and Chinese kale.

The broccoli requires a quick steaming, or blanching in salted water, and then it's tossed in the skillet where you have already prepared the garlicky crumb coating (butter, finely chopped garlic, bread crumbs, lemon zest, and chopped parsley). Quick. Easy. Sexy.

French Fridays with Dorie is an online cooking group dedicated to Dorie Greenspan‘s newest book, Around My French Table: More Than 300 Recipes from My Home to Yours. As members of the group, we have purchased the cookbook and cook along as much as we can. There is a new recipe each week, and we post about that recipe on Friday. We are asked to refrain from posting the actual recipes on our blog. The book is filled with stunning photography, and personal stories about each recipe, which makes it that much more intriguing.

French Fridays with Dorie: Pancetta Green Beans

I was wondering how Pancetta Green Beans, this week's French Fridays with Dorie recipe, made its way into Around My French Table: More Than 300 Recipes from My Home to Yours, but now I know there is Italian pancetta and ventrèche, French-style pancetta. Like bacon, ventrèche is made with pork belly and cured rather than smoked. It is meatier than bacon, and can be sliced thin, seared, and used in salads or canapés, or used to wrap lean meats for flavor and moistness.

Dorie adds crispy pancetta to green beans for "a speck of saltiness, another texture, and elements of elegance and surprise." Although not specifically called for, I used haricots verts, French for "green beans," a longer, thinner type of green bean than the typical, American green bean.

 
Although this is a very simple side dish to prepare, it is essential to blanch the green beans in heavily salted, boiling water until they are cooked through. The green beans are then plunged into an ice bath to stop the cooking, until thoroughly chilled, which results in vividly-colored, perfectly seasoned green beans.

I consulted Thomas Keller, chef extraordinaire, on this issue. Tom's "big-pot blanching" calls for a hefty one cup of Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt, 3lb per gallon of water. "You need to have enough water so that it doesn't lose its boil when you add the vegetables...the faster a vegetable is cooked, the greener it becomes." The quantity of salt seasons the vegetables and "prevents the color from leaching into the water."

Keller's Ad Hoc at Home not only has incredible recipes, but also includes words of wisdom, or lightbulb moments, on becoming a better cook...Great product + great execution = great cooking.

To drain the green beans after blanching, set them on a cooling rack lined with paper towels, over a baking sheet, so the beans don't sit in the excess water.

Coarsely chop the pancetta, sauté until frizzled and crisp, and drain on paper towels.

A few minutes before you are ready to serve, return the green beans and pancetta to the pan, stir over medium heat until heated through, season with a fresh grind of pepper, and drizzle with a little olive or walnut oil.

Our pancetta green beans paired beautifully with fresh, local halibut seasoned with a light Cajun spice rub.

There are many variations on this side dish, and I've included a few links to some that look especially good...

Green Beans with Pancetta and Mint  (Saveur)
Sauteed Green Beans with Pancetta and Mushrooms (Tyler Florence)
Green Beans with Sage and Pancetta (Bon Appetit)
Green Beans with Pancetta, Garlic and Herbs (Fine Cooking)
Green Beans with Pancetta and Pine Nuts (Williams Sonoma)
Spaghetti with Pancetta, Green Beans and Basil (Martha Stewart)

Finally, since I've got you here, you must try these Brussels sprouts. I ordered them as a side dish with my $60 steak, at Michael Mina's Stripsteak, Las Vegas (Best. Steak. Ever. I'd much rather spend money on food than gambling in Vegas). When I returned home, I made them for John, who hated Brussels sprouts, and we're both hooked. You could easily substitute pancetta for the bacon.


Glazed Brussels Sprouts
Slightly adapted from Michael Mina
4 servings

4 slices bacon (or pancetta), cut into small dice
1 pound young Brussels sprouts, tough or torn outer leaves discarded
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1/2 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cut into small dice
About 6 dried juniper berries (Juniper Berries Whole), crushed and finely chopped

Separate the Brussels sprouts into individual leaves, by trimming the bottom and tearing off leaves. Keep trimming a little off the bottom to release the leaves and discard the inner core.

Saute the bacon over medium-high heat in a medium saute pan, stirring occasionally, for about 5-7 minutes, until it is slightly crisp but still meaty-chewy in the center.

Add the leaves to the skillet, tossing gently to combine. Cook for a few minutes, until they are slightly wilted; do not overcook. Add the butter and stir until melted, then add the diced apple and juniper berries. Toss gently until the ingredients are evenly coated. Serve immediately.

Now, go eat your greenies!

French Fridays with Dorie is a online group of home chefs, dedicated to Dorie Greenspan's latest book, Around My French Table: More Than 300 Recipes from My Home to Yours.  Dorie says this book is about one of her great loves, France and its food, and is filled with stories of French life and "recipes for the elbows-on-the-table food" that she and her friends prepare in France today. The cookbook was a gift to myself for Christmas, and I've been on a French diet ever since!

French Fridays with Dorie rules do prohibit posting the actual recipe in our blog posts, to encourage purchase of the cookbook. However, this is truly a beautiful cookbook, full of incredible French dishes. Some recipes appear very simple, and some appear challenging, but all are approachable for the average home cook.

***

Home on the Range and Off to the Ranch

Oh, give me a home where the buffalo roam

And the deer and the antelope play

Where seldom is heard a discouraging word

And the skies are not cloudy all day

For my birthday, John is whisking me off to Montana's Bitterroot Valley, for a return rendezvous at Triple Creek Ranch. We are looking forward to horseback riding, fly fishing, nature photography, luxury accommodations and gourmet ranch cuisine. Last time, we dined at the Chef's Table with Executive Chef Jacob Leatherman, who also welcomed us into the kitchen to observe and photograph preparation of a special wine dinner. Another culinary highlight was when guests were invited to Craig Barrett's private cabin for a cocktail party and viewing of his magnificent art collection. Craig, retired Chairman and CEO of Intel, bought the Ranch as a birthday present for his wife.

Last night, our Coronado Concert in the Park culinary theme was Home on the Range, featuring a combination of gourmet chuck wagon and ranch-style fare.

  Everyone dressed for the occasion...

We started the evening with Ranch House Pâté, Bouchon-style, as an assiette de charcutier.  I'll be doing a separate post on this pâté when we return.

Of course, the men were properly welcomed to the picnic with a shot of Buffalo Trace, Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Hillari rode into the park with a basket of Jalapeno Cornbread Muffins

perfect with a bowl of Kai's Venison Chili

Corn was well-presented, with John's Amarillo Grilled Corn on the Cob 

John made a special sauce for the corn, which I will also share later...

Men of the Corn (from left to right) Kai, Jim, Brent, John and Alec 

and Alec and Nina's Macque Croux and Roasted Butternut Squash duo

Brent, the skilled hunter in our group, shot the venison for Kai's Venison Chili, the antelope for Kai's Antelope Meatballs...

the elk for the most amazing Elk Tenderloin stuffed with Feta Cheese....

AND, did I mention the Wild Boar Sliders?!

Jim grilled Pljeskavica - thin, large, juicy Serbian hamburgers made with beef, lamb and pork.  Jim and Carmen came over the night before to grind beef cheek and pork for the burgers with our grinder

For dessert, Mom shared Tyler Florence's Bourbon Peach Cobbler with bourbon-spiked whipped cream

and I finally had the opportunity to try my hand at Momofuku Milk Bar's Crack Pie.  It's definitely gooey and drool-worthy.  You can find the recipe, published in the Los Angeles Times, here.

Birthday roses...

Thank you for another splendid evening at the park...See ya around the Ranch!

Calamari Piccata and Roasted Asparagus

I had been craving a nice calamari steak, so I made a quick run to the market Friday after work.  This is a very simple, inexpensive and tasty dinner.  The following recipes serve two, but you can adjust accordingly for additional servings.  You can also substitute the calamari for chicken breast scaloppine (cutlets).  Roasted asparagus or broccoli complements perfectly.

Calamari Piccata

Serves 2

Ingredients:

1 cup flour

1 egg

1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs

1/2 cup Panko bread crumbs

2 teaspoons Emeril's Original Essence (make your own, or also available in the spice aisle)

Salt and pepper

1 Tablespoon olive oil

4 Tablespoons butter

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 cup white wine (or low- sodium chicken stock)

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

Italian parsley, chopped

Preparation:

Rinse the calamari steaks in cold water and pat dry.  Season both sides with salt and pepper.

Prepare a breading station with flour in the first bowl, whisked egg in the second, and a mixture of bread crumbs and panko in the third.  Season the flour and bread crumbs with about 1 teaspoon each of Emeril's Original Essence..."I don't know where you buy your flour, but mine doesn't come seasoned."  -Emeril Lagasse.

Heat olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large nonstick skillet on medium high heat. Dredge the calamari steaks in the flour, egg, and then bread crumbs, and add to the skillet.

Brown well on each side, about 2 minutes per side.  Transfer calamari to a plate.  Cover with aluminum foil and keep warm in the oven while you prepare the sauce.

Add white wine (or chicken stock), lemon juice, and capers to the pan. Use a spatula to scrape up the browned bits and reduce slightly. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Serve calamari with the sauce spooned over the top and sprinkled with parsley.

Roasted Asparagus
Slightly Adapted from Tyler Florence

1 bunch asparagus
1 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Grated or shaved Parmesan, optional
Lemon zest, optional

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

Snap off the woody ends from the asparagus and lightly peel the bottom half of the remaining stalks with a vegetable peeler (not necessary, but makes for a prettier presentation).  Spread the asparagus in a single layer on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with the salt and pepper, and roll to coat thoroughly.

Roast the asparagus until lightly browned and tender, about 8 minutes, giving the pan a good shake about halfway through to turn the asparagus. Arrange the roasted asparagus on a serving platter and top with some Parmesan mixed with a little lemon zest.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

Dinner for two!  This calamari pairs particularly well with beer (wheat), Champagne, Gewiirztraminer, and sparkling wine (Cava or Prosecco) - from What to Drink with What you Eat

Roasted Salmon and Fingerling Potatoes, served over Smashed Broccoli

My last post was about the beautiful merlot-colored walnuts we discovered at the Little Italy Farmers' Market, and used in our Spinach Ricotta Gnocchi with Gorgonzola.

We also brought home this fresh broccoli from the Farmers' Market.  I have noticed a few posts lately on ways to jazz up Brussels sprouts, so I decided to jazz up our broccoli and try a recipe for Smashed Broccoli and Garlic I found in one of my Tyler Florence cookbooks.  We both love broccoli, steamed or roasted, but I'm thrilled to have found this version.  It's still healthy, but the addition of red pepper flakes, garlic, yogurt and chicken broth transforms the florets into a flavorful, comforting, and fluffy bed for roast chicken or salmon.

Smashed Broccoli and Garlic

From Tyler Florence's Real Kitchen

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of red pepper flakes
5 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 bunch broccoli, about 1 pound, including stems, coarsely chopped
1 cup Chicken Stock
1/4 cup plain yogurt

Heat the olive oil in a medium pot; add the red pepper flakes and garlic. Throw in the broccoli and toss to coat in the garlic and oil. Pour in the chicken stock, cover, and let the broccoli steam for 10 minutes. When it is quite soft, pulse the broccoli a few times in a food processor. The broccoli should be partly smooth and partly chunky. Add the yogurt, and pulse a few more times.  Season with salt and pepper.

***

I certainly don't blog about everything we eat, and I wasn't even planning on posting the broccoli, until I tasted it. When everything else came together so nicely for our weeknight dinner for two, you're now going to hear about it all!

Tyler suggests serving the Smashed Broccoli with his Herb and Lemon Roasted Chicken, but I found a gorgeous salmon fillet at Boney's Bayside Market, the little gourmet market in Coronado.  There was a flier on the counter about this sustainable Cypress Island American Salmon, raised in the San Juan Islands of Washington.  I think it was only about $6.00/lb.

I rubbed the salmon with our homemade Salmon Sugar Spice Rub, kept in the spice cupboard for such occasions, seared the fillet in a little oil, and then put it in the oven alongside the potatoes that were already roasting and giving off a heavenly aroma of garlic and herbs.  I roasted the salmon at 425F, for 7-10 minutes, until the internal temperature read 135F.

The roasted fingerling potatoes, also courtesy of Tyler Florence, allowed us to use fresh herbs from our  garden and complemented the salmon and broccoli perfectly.

Roasted Fingerling Potatoes with Fresh Herbs and Garlic
From Tyler's Ultimate

Ingredients
2 pints fingerling potatoes
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
2 to 3 sprigs fresh sage
3 sprigs fresh thyme
6 cloves garlic, left unpeeled
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus for sheet pan
Salt and pepper
(I reduced all of the above quantities by half, for the two of us)
Directions
Preheat oven to 500 degrees F and place a baking sheet inside to heat.
Add potatoes, rosemary, sage, thyme, and garlic to a medium bowl. Drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Remove sheet pan from oven, lightly coat with olive oil, and pour potatoes onto pan. Place potatoes in oven and reduce heat to 425 degrees F. Roast for 20-30 minutes, or until crispy on outside and tender on inside.

If you're looking for an effortless, elegant, St. Patrick's Day dinner, this is my recommendation!